Assagao, Goa: A Guide to North Goa's Village of Flowers

Tucked into a small valley between Anjuna and Mapusa, Assagao was once known as Fullanchem Ganv, the village of flowers. It's still green and quiet, with old Portuguese houses along winding lanes, but it has also become North Goa's most stylish address, full of design stores, serious restaurants, yoga shalas and private villas. Close to the beach, but not on it.

Assagao at a glance

• Where: inland Bardez, North Goa, between Anjuna, Siolim and Mapusa.

• Beaches: Vagator and Anjuna are about 15 minutes by road.

• Mapusa: about 10 minutes, for the market and supplies.

• Feels like: leafy, calm and upmarket, with a strong food and design scene.

• Best for: couples, families, long stays, remote workers and yoga students.

What to see

St Cajetan Church

Assagao's white, twin-towered church dates to 1775, when it was built as a chapel of the Anjuna parish from laterite and lime plaster. Look up at the wooden ceiling, painted with stars.

The lanes and the old houses

The best way to see Assagao is slowly. Ride or walk the back lanes past restored Portuguese homes with deep verandas and balcãos, paddy fields and the forested hills that ring the valley. Go early morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the roads are empty.

Where to eat

• Gunpowder: coastal and South Indian food in an old Portuguese house. A Goa institution.

• Jamun: modern Indian cooking with regional flavours.

• Villa Blanche Bistro: a heritage-house bistro, popular for long, lazy brunches.

• Bawri: contemporary Indian with heirloom recipes.

• Vinayak Family Restaurant: the locals' pick for a Goan fish thali and prawns.

• Hotel Astoria: Goan classics from one of the village's oldest families.

Restaurants open and close every season, so check hours before you go.

Shopping and galleries

Assagao is one of the best places in Goa for design-led shopping. Browse Rangeela for textiles and homeware, People Tree for ethically made clothing, Cheshire Cat Gallery for jewellery and art, and The Project Café, a gallery, café and boutique stay in an old villa.

Yoga and wellness

Assagao is one of Goa's yoga hubs. The best known is Purple Valley, a residential Ashtanga retreat, and there are plenty of smaller studios offering drop-in classes through the season.

Where to stay

Most stays in Assagao are private villas, heritage homestays and small boutique hotels rather than big resorts. That makes it a great base for groups and families who want space and a pool. December and January book out early, so plan ahead. From March, and especially in the monsoon, prices drop and monthly rentals become good value.

Planning a stay in Assagao? Tell us your dates and group size through the form on our homepage, and we'll suggest a few places we like.

Getting around

• You'll need a scooter or a car. There's little public transport and the lanes are narrow.

• Use GoaMiles or a local taxi for airport runs and nights out.

• Many villas are down unlit lanes, so carry a torch and save your host's location pin.

Nearby

Combine Assagao with the beaches and cafes of Anjuna and Vagator, the Friday market in Mapusa, and the river villages of Siolim. Thinking of staying longer? Read our guide to working remotely from Goa.

Got a favourite Assagao spot we missed? Tag @goa on Instagram and show us.