Goa's River Ferries: A Guide to the State's Slowest, Best Rides

Long before bridges, Goa crossed its rivers by boat, and many villages still do. The state's River Navigation Department runs ferries across the Mandovi, Zuari, Chapora, Terekhol and their creeks, carrying school kids, fishermen, office-goers, scooters and the occasional bewildered tourist. They're cheap, scenic and one of the best ways to see a slower side of Goa.

How they work

• Free for pedestrians and two-wheelers. Cars and other vehicles pay a small toll, usually around ₹7–10 for a car on most routes.

• Just turn up. Ferries shuttle back and forth through the day. Most run from about 6 am until late evening, and some busy routes run past midnight.

• Ride your scooter on, switch off, and wait for the crew to wave you off at the other side.

Routes worth taking

Ribandar–Chorao

One of the busiest crossings, linking the Panjim side to Chorao Island and the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.

Old Goa–Piedade and St Pedro–Divar

Two ways onto Divar Island, with its quiet villages, old houses, fields and hilltop church. A perfect half-day trip by scooter or bicycle.

Naroa–Divar

Links Divar to Naroa in Bicholim taluka, home to the historic Saptakoteshwar temple.

Panaji–Betim

A short hop across the Mandovi, right from Panjim's waterfront.

Kerim–Tiracol

Goa's northernmost crossing, over the Terekhol river to Tiracol fort. Pair it with a visit to Querim beach.

Further afield

Other routes include Pomburpa–Chorao, Tolto–Dhauji, Camurlim–Tuem, Cumbarjua–Gaundalim, Vanxim–Amboi, Tonca–Sarmanas, Madkaim–Cortalim, Rassaim–Durbhat and Rai–Shiroda. Each one is a small adventure.

Tips

• Go in the early morning or around sunset for the best light on the water.

• Expect queues of scooters at peak office hours.

• Check current timings with the River Navigation Department before heading out late, as schedules can change.

Got a favourite ferry crossing? Tag @goa on Instagram and show us the view.